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Thursday, November 1, 2007

Effect : Creating Zombie (In photoshop CS2)

This Photoshop CS2 tutorial will show you how to rot people’s face, expose their skull and turn them into zombie. Credit by Mark Simms

zombie

What you need:
+ A portrait of the victim. AKA, the zombie and a picture of a human skull. Ideally in the roughly the same pose as your portrait which can be found on Google images.
zombie-tutorial-01
+ Download The “Pretty” free brush collection found here. Ideally you will need to grab “Pretty Cuts`n`cracks” & “Pretty Sore”
+ Download The “Veins” brushes here.
+ It would also be nice if you had the `tonemapping` plug-in by Photomatix. Not essential but handy.

Let’s get started!

OK, First off, install the downloaded brushes into your Photoshop brushes folder, we’ll need them a bit later.

STAGE 1

Now, we need to prepare your portrait. These next steps are not obligatory, and you can skip to Stage 2 and start to zombify your image.

how to create a zombie

I would recommend resizing the image to roughly 1300 pixels at its longest edge. The reason for this is that some of the brushes we downloaded earlier look a bit crappy if we try to enlarge them to accommodate a bigger image, I found that working on a medium sized image allows us to retain the clarity of the brushes later on. You may crop it to the desired format at this point as well as I have below.

how to create a zombie

Next, and this part is optional, we tonemap the image. So first off you will need to convert the image to 16-bit, the run the tonemapping filter. Play with the sliders until you get an effect you like. I use tonemapping as it gives the image a nice dirty look.

how to create a zombie

Next I duplicate that bottom layer,s o now we have two layers the same. Selecting the top layer You need to Desaturate it (CTRL+SHIFT+U) then set the blending mode of the newest layer to OVERLAY. Set the opacity of the new layer to roughly 70%. You should end up with something akin to this.

how to create a zombie

We need to bring the eye detail back into the image, so we are going to add a layer mask to the top layer. To do this, select the layer and click the little black rectangle with the white circle at the bottom of the layers palette. You should now get a white rectangle alongside the thumbnail of the top layer. Next select the brush tool and select black as your colour. Now click on the white rectangle next to the top layer thumbnail to select it. Now you should be able to `paint` over the eye and you will see the bottom layer appear. Close up view below.

how to create a zombie

OK, now that’s all done, we will flatten these two layers into a new single layer, press CTRL+SHIFT+ALT+N then CTRL+SHIFT+ALT+E. this will consolidate all the work we have done so far into a new, single layer. This will now act as our base image. You may hide the previous 2 layers.

STAGE 2 - Adding the skull

Right, now we need to add the skull to the image and fit it to our face. The image of the skull I use in this tutorial was a skull I borrowed from the Oral Surgery department at the hospital where I work. Anyway, I opened the image in Photoshop, cropped the skull to size, then copied it into my base document.­­

I reduced the opacity of the skull to 50%, then hit CTRL+T to enter into transform mode. Move and resize the skull to fit your face. The best way to line this up so it is more realistic is to pay attention to key feature. The most important being the upper ridge of the eye-socket lines up with the same ridge on your face, the jawbone needs to roughly line up as well, and also make sure the teeth and nose are in roughly the right place. This may mean you need to distort the skull image quite a lot from how it originally looked, but since we wont be seeing too much of the skull it doesn’t matter if the rest of it isn’t perfect.. basically the ridges of the eyes/eyebrows, the teeth and the nose are the most important here. See below for example.

how to create a zombie

Once you are happy with the skull placement, hit enter and then set the opacity of the layer back upto 100%. Add a layer mask to the skull layer and mask out the edges around the skull. I also had to mask around the fingers as they would, in real-life(?) be obstructing the face/skull. This is what I have so far, hopefully yours will be looking something like this now.

how to create a zombie

OK, next we need to go back to our base layer, that is the composite of the first two layers, and duplicate it and drag it to the top of the layer stack. Create a layer mask on that layer and get ready to scrape away some of your skin!!

Selecting the newest layer mask, select the brush tool, medium hardness, and select black from the colour palette (remember you can switch between Black and White by pressing the “X” key). Now, when you start to paint on the face, you will see the skull layer beginning to appear, freaky huh? I find its best to completely paint out the nose and one of the eyes and of course the teeth! Another great tip to remember is to use the square brackets “[ & ]” to alter your brush size on-the-fly.

Take you time on this stage and have fun, pay particular attention to the area around the teeth and try to make the skin/teeth blend in nicely together. Hopefully your image will look something similar to this now.

how to create a zombie

Even at this stage the picture looks super gruesome already, but what kind of self-respecting zombie doesn’t have a bit of flesh-rot to really stink up the place!! This is where things get very nasty indeed.

STAGE 3 - Rips and Scars and Veins, oh my!!

OK, next you need to create another layer, name this one VEINS.

OK, here you need to load up the “Pretty Cracks & Sores” brush set we downloaded earlier. These are pretty big brushes, however we really need them to cover the whole face (we will mask out the surplus veins in a minute). Select a brush you like the look of, choose a nice dark, deep red from the colour picker (and RGB value of 74,0,0 works well) and stamp it over your face (on the new layer). Don’t worry if it looks a bit strange at the moment. Add a layer mask to this layer and use the black brush tool to delete the veins’n’stuff from areas that don’t need them (eyes, bits of skull, fingers, teeth etc). Set the layer mode to `Multiply”. Again, spend a bit of time on this to make it look badass. Once finished, right click on the layer. Select “Blending Options” and put a tick in the “Bevel & Emboss” check box, here I used the defaults but adjusted the depth a tiny bit to increase the bumpiness of the veins.

Now, you can add more layers and use more of the brushes we download earlier to add more scarring, tearing and veinage, experiment and have fun, it really is great defacing yourself or a loved one!! Remember to use separate layers for the hands, body etc.

how to create a zombie

So next is just a few more overall cosmetic changes to the image to make it darker & grittier. Basically I just add a gradient map layer (black to white), contrast/brightness layer and adjust to taste!! Now, hopefully you should be zombified up to the max. George Romero would be proud of you! R.I.P.

5 Situations When Manual Focus is Better than Auto Focus



Digital Cameras present photographers with an ever increasing array of Automatic and Semi Automatic shooting modes. Most of these center around different ways of exposing your shots - however many cameras also give options for different focusing modes (auto, continuous focusing for moving subjects and manual).

It’s no wonder then that many photographers never make use of their camera and lens’ ability to focus manually. In fact this week I spoke with one DSLR owner recently who hadn’t even noticed the manual/auto focus switch on the side of his lens.

When is Manual Focus Better than Auto Focus?

Let me start by saying there is no right or wrong time to use either manual or auto focusing - both can produce great results in almost all circumstances - however there are a few times when you might find it easier to switch to manual focusing:

1. Macro Work

When doing macro photography I almost exclusively switch to manual focusing.

The narrow depth of field in these shots mean that you need to be incredibly precise with focusing and being just a smidgeon out or having your camera choose to focus on the wrong part of your subject can completely ruin a shot.

To use it you’ll also probably want to use a tripod to eliminate any movement of the camera which can make focusing either in manual or auto mode frustrating.

Manual focusing puts the control completely in your hands when shooting in this very precise setting.

2. Low Light

Shooting in dimly lit environments can be difficult for some cameras and lenses when it comes to focusing.

You’ll know when your camera is struggling in Auto mode when every time you go to take a shot the lens will whirl from one end of it’s focusing options to the other and back again before deciding on where to focus.

This can really lengthen your shooting process and make taking quick candid shots quite frustrating.

Switch to manual mode and you can quickly find your focusing point and get the shot you’re after.

3. Portraits

When shooting portraits focus needs to be precise.

The majority of your shots of people will need to have their eyes in perfect focus (although in the example to the left it’s the lips) and so switching to manual focus will give you complete control to enable this to save you from having to line up the focusing points on your camera on the eyes, press halfway down and then frame your shot.

Manual focusing in portrait work helps to ensure the viewer of the image is drawn to the part of the face that you want them to notice.

4. Shooting Through Glass/Wire Fences

If you’ve ever shot through anything like a window or a mess/wire fence you’ll know how cameras will often get confused on where to focus your shot.

Whether it’s shooting out of a plane window, taking a shot of an image at a museum or photographing animals through fences at the zoo - you might find your camera is confused.

Manual focusing will avoid this completely and allow you to get things just right - focusing upon the subject behind that glass or fence. If you do this in conjunction with a large aperture (which decreases depth of field) and get in close to the fence or glass you might well eliminate it completely from being noticeable in your shot.

5. Action Photography

Shooting fast moving subjects (like racing cars, planes, bikes, running animals etc) can be a frustrating experience when shooting with auto focus.

Even the continuous focusing modes can get left behind or confusing if you’re not panning with your subject smoothly.

One way to overcome this is to switch to manual focusing and pre focus on a point that the subject will move through - and shooting at that point. You need to get your timing just right - but you’ll find that it’ll often give better results than relying upon auto focus modes (particularly if you shoot in continuous shooting/burst mode).

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Blasting Solar

1. Creat new document, size 5 x 4 cm 300dpi




2. Make sure the foreground and background is black and white by hit D button
Filter >> Render >> Clouu
Filter >> Render >> Difference Cloud for 5,6 times




we have



3. Add Plastic Warp Filter, set that i was






4. Filter >> Stylize >> Glowing Edges



Use Blur, Dodge, Burn and Smudge Tools to creat some like smoke here




5. Duplicate this layer, blending mode = Color Dodge

6. Now, duplicate layer background again, add this Hue for this layer




7. Duplicate layer was Hue, go to Filter >> Render >> Lens Flare with 126 %
Zoom



we have

8. And now, arrage layer like this, then change blending mode = Color Burn
for Top layer


have it !!! Hot background !!

Credit by ezphotoshop.info

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Whooshing Sky Effect

Hello, In this tutorial I am going to show you how to create a whooshing sky effect on your photography. This can also be used to create a motion blur effect, to show speed down a long straight road or path. Everything in this tutorial can be done using any recent version of Adobe Photoshop. Including Elements, The final picture will look like this:



This technique can create very dramatic effects that can improve a photo a lot.

Step 1:
Open up your image in photoshop.



Step 2:
Use the rectangular selection tool to select your skyline. If your skyline isn’t straight, use the Polygonal Lasso tool.

Here, I have deselected the small buildings on the skyline. I do this by holding ALT and then drawing a box around the area I want to de-select. I have also highlighted the area in red so you can see what I have selected.


Step 3:
Once you’ve got your sky selected, go to Filter>Blur>Radial Blur

Set the Blur Method to “Zoom”, then your ready to start testing the Amount.

Now’s the tricky part, you need to look at your picture and decide where you want the zoom to center. Its no good having your picture zooming into the top right hand corner, it’ll look wrong. So try to pick the spot where a lead-in ends, such as a long road or a path. Here, I’ve used a long walkway and positioned my zoom center at the end.

Important note: If your skyline isn’t at the bottom of your photo, you will need to treat the positioning box as your selection. So If you place the zoom center at the bottom of the box, the zoom will go level with your skyline.




Put the quality to Medium or Low and experiment with the Amount of zoom applied. The reason your using lower quality, is its faster. If you go straight for best, it can sometimes take a couple of minutes to work it out. So it can be frustrating when you’ve been sat watching nothing for 2 minutes only to find out your picture is a frantic blur of nothing.

Once you’ve got your Amount right, set the quality to Best and let it work. I usually use around 20-40 Zoom, so try around those figures.

If you are totally happy with your settings, click OK and wait for it to load.

Finished!


Friday, October 12, 2007

How to Creating a rainy scene

Hello All. This time we will take a photo and hit the weather-switch to “Very rainy”. Follow along and you might learn something new


Step 1: Add noise
Rain is basicly small drips of water, so to save time we will use filters to create the drips. Create a new document with greater size than your photo, make it double or something like that.

Fill the background layer with black. Then add a Noise-filter.
Filter > Noise > Add Noise

(Ammount: 20-40%)
(Distribution; Gaussian and Monochromatic)





Step 2: Motion blur
Right now, we have our small drips (basicly small white dots) that are freezed. Usually, rain falls. So I suggest we add a Motion blur-filter to give our drips the speed they deserve.

Filter > Blur > Motion Blur

(Angle: Choose the angle of your rain (-63)
(Distance: Choose the speed of the drips (21))




Step 3: Adjust levels
If you ask me, I would say that the image right now is too noisy and flat for our purpose. Easy to fix, by adjusting the image’s Levels!

Image > Adjustments > Levels





This was the last step for the first part of this tutorial. In the next part I will show you how to apply the rain to your photos.


Applying the rain to a photograph

All right, we have now got our rain and the final step is to apply the rain to a photo. The tecnique is basicly based on blending and the trick is to create an illusion of depth in the rain.

Move your rain-layer and place it on top of a photo. Then change the Blending mode to Screen.

That is all you need to make a scene look rainy. You might want to adjust the opacity or maybe duplicate the rain-layer to increase the ammount of rain.




Here are some result pictures of what you can achive using this technique in Adobe Photoshop.See before/after

Monday, October 8, 2007

Get A Graphic Designer According To Your Budget

Every business owner knows that in order to get what you want for your brochure printing project, you need to hire an experienced and skilled graphic designer who can work with you to create an excellent quality and effective brochure printing material.

But a business owner also knows for a fact that getting a graphic designer to design a brochure printing project for his or her business involves a great deal of money. In fact, the cost often gets the greater piece of the budget pie. It is no wonder therefore, that a lot of business owners tend to venture on their own to save on expenses for their brochure printing pieces.

So how to hire a graphic designer and still have the budget in tight reins for your brochure printing project? As with any kind of service, your brochure printing costs for your graphic designer is relative to the needs that you have, as well as to the company you've asked for a brochure printing job quote. Here are some of the factors you have to consider when hiring a graphic designer to do your brochure printing design for you:

1 - Insurance. Make sure to ask whether they are insured or not, as this would protect you from problems later on (i.e. copyright infringement, ownership of brochure printing design rights).

2 - Value Added Service. Additional services that would make it easier for you to deal with your hired graphic designer for your brochure printing project will almost always get you additional fees. These include services such as online payment of the invoice provided by your brochure printing designer.

3 - Design Standards. As always, good design equals, most often than not, more costs. You could almost count in your fingers those great graphic designers who can design your brochure printing project for you at less cost.
A skilled and experienced graphic designer would already have the reputation, enough to give them the opportunity to charge a much higher rate. It's often true that you get what you pay for. And this also holds true for most graphic designers for your brochure printing project.

4 - Skills and Experience. The more experienced and skilled the graphic designer, the more he or she will charge for your brochure printing project. Your hired graphic designer for your brochure printing project has earned the right to charge more for their knowledge and experience.

The experience of your graphic designer also often relays to better service because your brochure printing designer would know and understand how to prepare and plan for the things needed for your brochure printing job, even without any prompting on your part. In addition, your graphic designer would most likely be able to deal with issues that might come up, hence, making it easier for you to get your print brochures reproduced quickly.

Depending on your needs and requirements, there are still many factors you have to consider when deciding to get the appropriate graphic designer for your brochure printing project. You have to realize though, that hiring a graphic designer is just like getting a box of chocolates - you'll never know what you'll get unless you try one.

About the Author by Colleen Davis

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Adobe Photoshop Elements
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Transformer style handmake !!

Let start ...
1. Creat new document, size 5 x 4 cm,300 dpi



2. Creat new render, we 'll use Cloud
Go to Filter >> Render >> Cloud

3. Next, Filter >> Sketch >> Water Paper and set parameter as like this




Go to Image >> Adjustment >> Brightness/Contract and raise Contract number



4. Make some color there

Go to Image >> New adjustment layer.. >> Color Balance and set parameter for
Shadows, Midtones, and Highlights area and move this adjustment layer to the TOP (This part it dosen't matter whatever you want)







Look, nice color


5. Choose this gradient


With Diamond fill mode



Preview in Gradient Editor windows




6. Make new guide, View >> New Guide..




Set 299 px, because 5 cm ~ 600 px, this guide will cross the center of page



7. Creat new layer and Fill this gradient by the direction